February 1, 2025, 2:12 pm | Read time: 10 minutes
Ewa Herzog is a Berlin-based designer with Ukrainian roots. She is a regular at Fashion Week. STYLEBOOK spoke with the designer about her fashion, fashion faux pas, the war in Ukraine, and how she offers opportunities to women with disabilities or migrant backgrounds in her company.
In 2011, Ewa Herzog founded her eponymous label, focusing on haute couture made in Berlin, all produced sustainably. High-quality materials, feminine cuts, and fabrics like lace are her trademarks. With her fashion, she aims to help women feel strong, beautiful, and confident. Her dresses highlight the natural elegance and personality of each wearer. But her commitment goes beyond that–her company not only employs mostly women, but also offers opportunities to women with disabilities or from migrant backgrounds to pursue their careers at Ewa Herzog.
Overview
STYLEBOOK: You’ve been part of Berlin Fashion Week for many years. Do you still get nervous before such events?
Ewa Herzog: “Of course, every show is different. The collections, the inspirations, and their meanings always vary. Especially with collections that have a lot of heart and personal emotions invested, the excitement is great. After all, you’re always presenting a piece of yourself.”
How long do the preparations for a show that lasts only a few minutes take?
“The preparations typically take about half a year. However, I often have the ideas for the collection in my head a year in advance. As a designer, you have an intuitive sense of what you want to show in the coming season. This leads to a creative process that spans months.”
The Berlin Fashion Week is often ridiculed in an international context. What are your thoughts?
“World War II and the division into East and West had significant impacts on the fashion industry in Germany. While cities like Paris, London, and New York continued to develop their fashion cultures, Germany lagged behind for a long time. With the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at the Brandenburg Gate, Berlin began to position itself as a fashion capital and show that we have our own creative identity.
Unfortunately, there is still a lack of sufficient political and societal support to strengthen fashion as a cultural and economic force. Fashion is art; it creates jobs and brings people together. We should be proud of our designers and our domestic production, focus less on external views, and trust more in our own strengths. If we better nurture our potential, the world will pay more attention to us and recognize the relevance of our fashion. Fashion is not only art but also a significant economic factor. We should place more value on our designers and domestic production to gain further international relevance.”
How would you describe the typical woman who wears your fashion?
“I don’t particularly like the word ‘typical.’ Any woman who feels drawn to my designs can wear Ewa Herzog. It’s about emphasizing individual femininity and highlighting the unique personality of the wearer.”
Before starting a new collection, what do you particularly focus on?
“I don’t focus on anything specific. It usually starts with a feeling or a sense of how women might want to dress in the next season, what colors, shapes, or silhouettes they will wear. This results in a combination of color, form, and feeling that is hard to describe. It starts in the mind, is put on paper, and then realized three-dimensionally in the form of a garment.”
Ewa Herzog Values Diversity
Diversity in fashion is becoming increasingly important, but it hasn’t fully reached the entire fashion industry yet. Where do you think we stand?
“The issue affects not only fashion but all areas of society. It’s about developing acceptance and respect for one another. Every designer should be able to express their vision freely. At the same time, we must learn to listen to each other and respect diversity. Only then can we remain democratic and fair as a society.”
And where is there still room for improvement?
“There is always room for improvement in education. Awareness and open conversations promote understanding for one another. The more we address these topics, the better we can grow together as a society, which is crucial for our future.”
Your website states that many women are involved in your production. Do you emphasize a female quota?
“I’ve never consciously focused on a female quota. It just happened that most of our employees are women. But we also have one man on the team. Most women might be more inclined towards handwork with fabrics, beads, and lace, but I wouldn’t say no if a talented young man were interested in working in our studio, as long as he fits well into our team.”
It also says, ‘We support women who can’t find work due to their disabilities.’ How does that work?
“Before the pandemic, we hired an employee with early-stage Parkinson’s who was with us for a long time. When it became more difficult for her due to her illness, we referred her to a social institution where she is very happy and can continue to be creative. We don’t exclude women with disabilities from being part of our company. I find it very enriching and not a hurdle at all. Additionally, during the war in Ukraine, we hired an employee who didn’t speak German. We are training her now; she is learning German, is very talented, and I hope we can work with her for a long time.”
How the Ukraine War Affects Ewa Herzog
You’ve been doing charitable work for years. Where does this commitment come from?
“It’s simply part of my character. If you have the opportunity to help, you should do it. Every contribution, no matter how small, can make a difference. There are people who urgently need our support.”
You are originally from Ukraine. How does the ongoing Ukraine war affect your work/life?
“When the war began, I initially felt that my work had no significance in such a situation. But over time, I realized that even as a creative, you can play an important role. You can mobilize and bring people together. We started an initiative through which we were able to collect many donations and hand them over to the AVUS station for transport to Ukraine. It was important to me to help people on the ground directly.
The war has greatly influenced my creativity and me. At first, I felt paralyzed and couldn’t conduct a fashion show or other events because everything seemed so trivial. But now I’ve understood that through my work, my contacts, and resources, I can also help. Additionally, I adopted three dogs from Ukraine, whom I love dearly. As a Ukrainian, I always say: My heart is in Germany, but my soul is in Ukraine. The war has torn a part of my soul, and that makes me sad. But I have enough strength to keep going, to continue helping, and to persevere. I hope to implement projects in the future that connect both Germany and Ukraine and promote cultural exchange. That is my great wish.”
Fashion Investments Every Woman Should Make
Which celebrity woman do you think has great style?
“There are many prominent women with great style. I particularly admire how bold and confident many women have become in fashion in recent years. I can’t single out just one.”
And which celebrity woman would you like to restyle?
“I would tell the person directly if I had the opportunity. (laughs)”
Are there any fashion trends you’re happy to see return?
“I’m delighted with every trend that comes back in a modified form, like corsets. I love them, but I would never force a woman into a corset where she can’t breathe or that harms her body. I like this trend and that we’ve now managed to translate it into a beautiful accessory in our daily wardrobe without feeling restricted. Corsets must be comfortable and should not restrict the body or movement.”
And which ones would you like to put in the mothball closet?
“Neon-colored leggings.”
Can you remember any of your fashion faux pas?
“Neon-colored leggings.”
What is worth investing in fashion-wise as a woman?
“A high-quality suit, a timeless coat, and classic accessories without flashy logos are a good investment. These basics are versatile and durable. The same goes for bags and classic shoes that can be worn over several seasons. The wardrobe should be built like a modular system that you can draw from each season. One trend piece and otherwise more classic, so you can mix and match the pieces. This is very sustainable and reduces consumption. A well-thought-out wardrobe is more stylish and sustainable than an overfilled closet.”
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Ewa Herzog: “Fashion Is Not the First Thing You Buy in a Crisis”
Inflation and other factors make it difficult for many to invest in new pieces every season. How can you upgrade your wardrobe with little money and effort?
“It’s important to understand what you want to wear, what you have in your closet, and how you can enhance your wardrobe with one or two pieces that reflect current trends. Of course, it’s important to think long-term about how and where you shop, and especially how sustainably. As mentioned before, I find the modular system very sensible, where you replace, add, and still have the classic pieces that can be combined in many ways. Everyone should invest in classic, well-made pieces that last a long time instead of buying mass-produced items that quickly go out of style. Our resources are not infinite, so restrained consumption is important. Conscious shopping not only saves money but also the environment.”
In recent months, we’ve heard about numerous bankruptcies in the fashion sector, with reasons always being inflation, crises, wars, and cautious consumer behavior. Have you felt this too?
“Of course, we’ve felt it too, because an economic crisis affects us all. Fashion is not the first thing you buy in a crisis, so we feel it too and are constantly developing new approaches to keep up with the times and avoid problems.”
Brick-and-mortar retail remains an important pillar. What do you think needs to change to prevent all shopping streets from becoming empty?
“In the last 10 to 20 years, our buying behavior and lifestyle have changed significantly. Everything has become faster, and a lot is bought online. In my opinion, this is not the right way, and we should support brick-and-mortar retail as an important part of our society. Personal contact in retail is crucial. If we continue to buy everything anonymously online, we lose humanity and individuality. Brick-and-mortar retail offers inspiration and exchange, which we should support to keep our cities vibrant.”