March 18, 2024, 4:31 pm | Read time: 4 minutes
Frizz can be annoying and needs to be tamed. But is it really always “just” frizz? Or are there times when it’s actually curls that need to be recognized and properly treated? STYLEBOOK spoke with a hairstylist about this topic.
Anyone who constantly complains about frizzy hair will know this: As soon as the humidity is even slightly higher than usual, sleek, styled hair suddenly turns into a tangle of unruly wool. The hair puffs up, and nearly everywhere, damaged-looking hair seems to pop up, curling rebelliously. But what many don’t know is that sometimes it’s not frizz; it’s actually a natural curl pattern that has never been properly styled. At least, that’s what hairstylist Dominik Tjumen says. He tells STYLEBOOK how to distinguish between curls and frizz and how to best style each hair type.
Overview
What Are Curls and What Is Frizz?
We often refer to unruly, flyaway hair as frizz. These are the hairs that are hard to tame, whether the hair is coarse or fine. Frizz usually lacks definition and form, with hair sticking out in different directions. Additionally, frizzy hair often lacks shine, making it look brittle and dry. Curls, on the other hand, have a defined, spiral or wavy texture and a clear, identifiable shape. They can also have a natural shine, often appearing healthy and well-maintained.
When dealing with frizz, we often reach for anti-frizz products like serums, oils, or leave-in conditioners to reduce it. For curls, we prefer products like curl creams or gels to define and care for them. Curly hair results from the specific shape of the hair follicle. Unlike straight hair, the follicle in curls is curved, causing the hair to naturally grow in a curly form.
How Can You Tell the Difference?
In fact, some people are unaware of their wavy hair. Hairstylist Dominik Tjumen tells STYLEBOOK: “Hair can often be wavy or even curly when wet after washing. You usually notice in the wet state whether the hair is naturally straight or curly. Whether the curls hold when dry is another matter.” The reason is that if curls are not properly styled and cared for, they tend to fall apart, appearing straw-like and frizzy. “Wavy hair often straightens when dry, making it appear straighter than it actually is with proper styling.”
But why are we not sufficiently informed about our own hair structure? We often straighten our hair early on to conform to a Western beauty ideal. Tjumen knows where the ignorance lies: “We have no culture for curls. This has changed significantly in the last century, but the beauty image has not.” Curls are extremely diverse, leading to a lack of knowledge: “Curls are never neat, festive, tidy, or clean, but wild, exciting, unconventional, cheeky, inspiring, just different!” says the hair expert. Therefore, it’s important to understand your own hair structure and, if you suspect curls, adjust your styling accordingly and try products for curls. For example, you can also work with a diffuser attachment.
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Can You Get Back Curls That Have Been Styled Incorrectly for a Long Time?
If you have curls or waves but never recognized them and have always straightened your hair with aggressive heat, you ruin part of the natural hair structure. Can this actually be fixed without having to radically part with your hair?
“Sometimes the hair is so damaged that you can never get the curl back,” says Tjumen. “However, you can restore and revive a lot with new technologies like Redken Acidic Bonding, K18, or Olaplex, but it requires a lot of aftercare, and that doesn’t even include the elaborate styling of curls,” he further explains. Additionally, frequent straightening can add frizz to the already electric hair. “Finding the right way to revive the hair deters some because it requires a completely different routine. Both in handling, frequency, and products.” Because, in addition to the difference between curls and frizz, curls with frizz differ from curls without frizz. You can’t say that silicones are good for every curl. But curls with frizz need silicones in their products.
But Tjumen shares a styling tip for curls: “The hair must be protected from moisture; as little moisture as possible should penetrate.” And another product should not be neglected: “You shouldn’t skip hairspray either. Wearing curly hair straight (and fighting frizz) is a completely different game than wearing curly hair curly and fighting frizz. As always, routine, products, frequency, and haircut are key.”